Like an ambitious and beautiful pageant winner unwilling to relinquish
her crown, Boracay primps and preens year after year, going through its own
version of cosmetic surgery in the off-season in order to maintain its crown as
the trophy beach of the Philippines.
Despite oft-heard nostalgic laments ('In the '80s, the only sound was from the
fruit juice shaker machines'), Boracay, little more than a speck off the
northwestern tip of Panay,
still satisfies the planeloads of holidaymakers looking for sun, sand and
nonsobriety. Of course no place (including White Beach, where
the action is and all that most people see of the island) can ever live up to
the hyped up superlatives bandied about by tourism-department officials.
Hotels, restaurants and shops arecrowded along the
beach like spice shops in a Middle Eastern bazaar, and vendors selling watches,
sunglasses, jewellery and boat trips do pester you
like flies on honey, and the colourful paraws are sometimes
lined up on the beach as if it were a mall parking lot. But all this aside,
Boracay, which is only about 9km long and only 1km wide at its narrow midriff,
is an intoxicating mix of yes, sun, sand and nonsobriety.
The island really
only started receiving visitors in the '70s, and since then more than 300
resorts and hotels have been built, and the outdoor pedestrian D'Mall expands
every year, taking over more real estate and birthing more shops, bars and
restaurants. None of this though seems to affect the regular rhythm of the
typical day which includes tropical cocktails, fruit shakes, tanning, the
occasional afternoon beach-volleyball game and, for the actively inclined, just
about every imaginable water activity known to man.
The national
government is trying to partner with the private sector in dealing with
contentious issues such as land titling and waste; there's a growing amount of
waste arising from poorly regulated development that threatens not only the island's
ecological balance but its future as an economic cash cow for the tourism
industry and locals alike. A January 2004 fire which razed the Talipapa Public
Market and several hotels nearby was partly the result of cramped conditions
due to overdevelopment. Shangri-La Hotels is planning a major new development
on Punta Bunga, scheduled to open in mid-2007, and there are rumours that
Hyatt, Hilton and Novotel are considering building on the island. The majority
of visitors to Boracay are increasingly from Korea and other Asian countries,
and resorts and restaurants are beginning to cater to their tastes.
You can escape the heavily touristed White Beach to Bulabog Beach to the east, which because it's
wilder and windier is a favourite windsurfing spot, and to the long and quiet Puka Beach to the north. Mt Luho View Deck (admission P20) offers views
both magnificent and decidedly trashy; its slopes are the site of Boracay's
garbage dump (at the time of research there were alternative proposals for
dealing with this growing problem).
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